Rakher Upobash: An evening of faith, lights and devotion

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As dusk falls over Narayanganj, thousands of tiny ghee lamps transform a quiet temple courtyard into a glowing ocean of collective prayer. Experiencing Rakher Upobash in person reveals a rare, deeply moving display of devotion where every flickering flame carries a wish for a loved one's safety.

As a travel enthusiast, Rakher Upobash had long been on my list of events to experience. Last Saturday, I finally made the journey to Baradi in Narayanganj to see it for myself. And, as often happens, the reality of the experience surpassed every expectation I had carried with me.

The journey from Dhaka took us around two hours. We took a bus from Gulistan, and after reaching Mograpara, we hired a CNG to reach the Shri Shri Loknath Brahmachari Ashram & Mandir in Baradi.

The last ride took us through quiet, rural roads, with little indication of the enormous gathering waiting ahead. But as we reached the ashram, the scene changed completely — thousands of people had gathered, sitting in orderly rows, preparing to offer their prayers.

We took off our shoes and headed towards a nearby building, hoping to catch a top view of the gathering. We eventually found a spot on its third floor, which offered us a beautiful perspective of the entire scene below.

From there, we could see devotees immersed in prayer, photojournalists moving around with their cameras, and visitors exploring the atmosphere.

I was particularly surprised to see more than a hundred foreign visitors witnessing the festival.

For those unfamiliar with the tradition, Rakher Upobash, also known as Kartik Brata, is an annual Hindu religious observance held during the latter part of the Bengali month of Kartik.

Devotees observe a daylong fast and gather at temples on Saturdays and Tuesdays to light lamps filled with ghee and offer prayers for the health, safety and well-being of their loved ones.

The tradition is closely associated with Baba Loknath Brahmachari, a Hindu yogi and spiritual figure who spent the final years of his life in Baradi. According to popular belief, he encouraged his followers to fast and light lamps as a prayer for protection against diseases and misfortune. His teachings and legacy continue to draw devotees to the ashram.

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